Parts Box

2 – sheets of ¼" plywood,

2 – 10 foot 1x12s,

2 – 8 foot 2x4s,

2 – 10 foot x 1½"dia. wood poles,

2 – 8x10 foot polytarps,

2 – 50' lengths of ¼" nylon rope,

unlimited glue, fasteners, and paint.

Lines

The first 50' length of ¼" nylon rope is used for:

19.5 ft. – for the mainsheet,

10.5 ft – seam line in the head of the sail,

11.0 ft. – to lace the head of the sail to the top yard,

  9.0 ft. – to lace the foot of the sail to the boom.

            Use the second 50' length for:

18 ft. – for the halyard,

18 ft. – for the in/outhaul,

  8 ft. – for the painter,

  6 ft. – for the loops of the two parrels: 3' each.

Note: There is no line left for the reefing.  Personally, I prefer to do this with small pieces of elastic cord with small hooks at both ends.  They hook fast around the boom.  These cords would have to be added under the next heading as fasteners (?).

If this is not allowed in the contest, to get around it, omit the 10.5" rope in the seam of the head.  It is then used as a reef line.

            Another 9' of rope can be obtained by using Chicago bolts through the grommets’ holes to attach the sail to the boom instead of lacing line.

            The third possibility to obtain more line for reefing is to clamp the sail at the foot with carriage bolts and wing nuts between the two battens that make up the boom.  The hardware to do this would have to be added to the heading Additional Small Hardware.

ADDITIONAL PARTS FOR COMPLETION OF THE BOAT

Rigging

Lines

5 – nylon fairleads with a ½"dia. hole for the following locations:

1 – fairlead for the halyard at the top of the mast,

1 – fairlead on the deck for the in/outhaul,

1 – fairlead on the deck to attach the painter,

1 – fairlead on each quarter knee aft to attach a dock line.

Sail

  4 – brass grommets with a ½" hole dia. for sail corners,

35 – brass grommets with a ¼" hole dia. for lacing to the spars, and reef points.

Boom

1 – stainless steel U-link for in/outhaul,

1 – block hanger for mainsheet block.

Mainsheet

1 – 1 sheave block with head and becket,

1 – 2 sheaves block with head only,

1 – U-bolt - ¼" stock dia, 1" inside width to attach mainsheet block to the middle thwart.

2 – U-links - ¼" stock dia. to attach blocks to the block hanger on the boom, and the

U-bolt on the middle thwart,

Rudder Fittings

1 – 3" split pin tied the rudder with a shoelace: the tiller-locking pin,

1 – 4" carriage bolt - ¼"dia. with a winged locknut: the tiller hinge pin on the rudder,

1 – 2" carriage bolt with a locknut and an extra (plastic) washer between the tiller and the tiller extension,

1 – spring clip with stainless steel screws to secure the rudder,

1 – pintle 2¼" - ¼" dia. at the bottom of the transom,

1 – pintle 1½" - ¼" dia. high on the rudder,

2 – gudgeons, one on the rudder, one on the transom for the ¼" dia. pintles,

8 – #6 - ½" screws to attach the rudder fittings to the rudder,

8 – #8 - ¾" screws to attach the rudder fittings to the transom.

Note.  The longer pintle at the bottom facilitates placing the rudder.

Additional Small, Stainless Steel Hardware

The skeg, the bow piece, and the guardrails are easily damaged.  Do not glue these parts but attach them with screws for easy removal.

The skeg is attached from the inside through the keelson, the bottom, and the keel with three screws of different length.

            The three screws for the ornamental bow piece are placed in (carefully) predrilled holes from the outside.

            The screws for the guardrail are long enough to go partly in the spacer blocks between sheers and inwales.

            The transom bench is attached with screws to be able to replace the skeg.

            Besides being glued to the trunks, the sides of the dagger board case are also attached with screws to the trunks.

For the skeg and the bow piece:

2 – #6 - 2½" screws,

2 – #6 - 1½" screws,

2 – #6 - 1" screws.

For the guardrails:

24 – #6 - 1½" screws.

            For the transom bench:

  4 – #6 - ¾" screws.

            For the dagger board case:

16 – #6 - ¾" screws.

            For the 5 fairleads:

10 – # 6 - 1¼" screws.

Sealing

I prefer to seal hulls inside and out with the same glue that is used to put the parts together.  It is marine glue if the boat is dry stored, epoxy if the boat is kept constantly in the water.

If the boat is mostly dry stored:

40 ft. – 4" Buckram tape,

1 box – Marine (2.2 kg) glue, a.k.a. Plastic resin, or Urea formaldehyde,

1 can – Marine glue (1 lb.).

            If the boat is kept constantly in the water:

40 ft. – 4" fiberglass tape,

1 gallon – epoxy (estimated).

Fillings

2 tins – Plastic wood or any other suitable wood filler.

The filler contains acetone, which evaporates constantly once the can has been opened for use.  For this reason, it is better to buy a pair of small tins.

Paint

The minimum painting is one coat of primer followed up by two cover coats of paint.

If the boat is normally dry stored, use good quality latex paint.  The flat latex paint is the primer coat; the glossy paint is used for the topcoats.

If the boat is kept in the water, use (again) good quality alkyd paint.  About a gallon of paint of the main colour of choice is needed for the two cover coats.  Half a gallon is needed for the primer coat. 

A quarter of a bright red, or green paint is needed for the bottom.

Paint the inside of the hull with gray, or yellow, anti-slip porch paint (two quarts).

Clear varnish the gunwales, the ornamental bow piece, the rudder assembly, the dagger board, and the thwarts.  You will need two quarts (estimated) of plain varnish.

TEMPORARY PARTS FOR CONSTRUCTION

This material becomes redundant after the construction of the project is finished.

Jig

2 – sheets of ¼" of plywood of the cheapest quality locally available.

Purpose: 4 temporary cross frames, 4 longitudinal frames, 4 additional brackets, 4 ladder rungs (see the drawing on page 13), and the hull spreader (see page 21).

2 – 10 foot 2x3s.

            Purpose: ladder beams for jig.  See drawing page 13.

Hardware

4 – dozen 1¼" finishing nails.

      Purpose: to attach the cross frames to the longitudinal brackets,

to hold the chine battens to the cross frames.  See page 19.

5 – dozen #6 - ¾ " screws.

Purpose: to attach the brackets and the ladder rungs to the ladder beams,

      to attach the bow and the transom boards to the side panels,

      to hold the parts of the deck fore, the mast thwart, the middle thwart, and the parts of the bench at the transom clamped until the glue has dried.

16 – #4 – ½" screws.

         Purpose: to hold the side panel butts until the glue has set.

Templates

3 – sheets of Bristol board

Purpose: to make templates of the bow, transom boards, and the skeg.

Leftover Material

The only leftover material besides some shavings and a pail of sawdust is the second polytarp.

It can be used to try a different sail plan.  Two possible figurations that should perform well are a leg-of-mutton sail and a spritsail.  Both sails require no rope for lacing.  It would provide some leftover rope for a docking line.  It would probably require a more forward position of the mast also.

Do NOT make any sail configuration larger than 60 sq. ft.