  
                          For those of traditional bend, intent on working 
                            in historically accurate modes, the bench hook a.k.a. 
                            sail maker’s hook may be a familiar  object 
                            in theory but not in practice. Through the years I 
                            have been involved in various traditional rigging 
                            and shipwright endeavors and have intermittently sought 
                            a source for hooks only to stumble blindly into stone 
                            walls, give up, and employ an alternative means of 
                            securing items. 
                          With the coming of a new project of this fall, building 
                            a traditional natural fiber sail for my 10’ 
                            dinghy—the lead project to the building of a 
                            historically accurate “sea boat” to plans 
                            dating from the late 19th century, the fires for locating 
                            this tool were again stoked. Fortunately the search 
                            on this occasion bore fruit: a commercially available 
                            version of this ancient artifact rendered in stainless 
                            (retail sources include Duckworks 
                            and Sail Rite). The photograph (above, right) shows 
                            the modern variant. 
                           In 
                            comparison with traditional hook design of the late 
                            1800’s (an example of a working hook from the 
                            turn of the 19th century, reprinted with permission, 
                            from The Times and Tools of A.P. 
                            Lord, From 1868 to 1957... The Working Life of 
                            a Maine Coast Sailmaker, G. 
                            Gambell, 2005 is offered at left) 
                            one finds the configuration of the new hook consisting 
                            of heavier wire with a steeply angled bevel at the 
                            point. The point is blunter than that of its counterpart 
                            and in use offers neither purchase on nor penetration 
                            into canvass fabric.  
                           What 
                            to do? Enter the shouldered “scorpion tailed” 
                            point of Emiliano Marino. 
                          In his book, Sailmaker's 
                            Apprentice, Mr. Marino introduces a species 
                            of hook heretofore unheard of in my experience; the 
                            scorpion tailed hook. On close study, it seems this 
                            design offers a viable alternative to regrinding since 
                            the shoulder of the commercial hook, as Mr. Marino 
                            states, provides a positive stop thereby preventing 
                            the inevitable elongation of the hole by over penetration. 
                          Unfortunately nowhere, it seemed, did such an object 
                            exist, though it does; it is after all pictured in 
                            Marino’s book. It was time for a trip to my 
                            workshop. 
                          If you are, as I am, enthralled with the availability 
                            of a stock hook but would like a bit better performance 
                            from it, here is how to make it into your very own 
                            shouldered scorpion tailed sail hook. 
                          You will require the following: (1) one commercial 
                            hook, (2) one #15 needle—I used a standard round 
                            needle, (3) a vise, (4) propane torch, (5) 5/64” 
                            drill bit, (6) electric hand drill, (7) paste flux, 
                            (8) small coil of rosin core solder, (9) mill bastard 
                            file, (10) water in container for quenching, (11) 
                            small triangular mill file. (12) approximately 12’ 
                            of small line—I used 1/4” manila, (13) 
                            fire extinguisher—in close proximity to hot 
                            work. 
                            
                          Clean your bench and prepare for hot work.  
                          Anneal the hook’s point: clamp the sail hook 
                            in the vise, with approximately 1” of the point 
                            extending above the vise jaws. Using the torch, heat 
                            the hook’s point until it attains a dull red 
                            color. Let cool without quenching. 
                          Using the mill bastard file, file a flat on the point 
                            large enough to accept the diameter of the #15 needle 
                            while leaving a flat shoulder around the needle. 
                          With the drill bit mounted in the hand drill, drill 
                            a hole, centered on the flat, straight into the stock 
                            of the hook. Make the depth 3/16” to 1/4”. 
                            (If the drill will not cut into the stainless, anneal 
                            again). Once drilled, set the hook aside. 
                          Clamp the #15 needle in the vise and cut/break off 
                            the point for a length of approximately 1/2”. 
                            Dress the broken end with the file. 
                           Again 
                            clamp the hook in the vise. Insert the 1/2” 
                            long needle into the hole drilled in the hook. Prepare 
                            the solder and flux--dip the end of the solder into 
                            the can of paste flux and pick up a small amount of 
                            flux. Heat the hook/needle, apply the flux to the 
                            needle/hook joint and then touch the solder to the 
                            joint—adjust heat so the solder flows gently 
                            into the hole around the needle. When the solder firms, 
                            quench the hook by dipping the hot end into the water. 
                            Smooth and dress the solder around the base of the 
                            newly installed scorpion tail with the triangle file, 
                            splice on your lanyard and you have Emiliano Marino’s 
                            Scorpion Tailed Shouldered sail hook. 
                            
                          Bob Booth 
                            
                          
                            
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